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First camera – LEGO photography specific advice?

Posts: 1
Topic starter
Joined: 10 months ago

Hello everyone!

I'm completely new to photography and videography, in fact I've never even held a mirrorless or DSLR in my hands. But I've been thinking about getting a camera and a set of lenses for quite a while now. Part of what I want to do is take photos and videos of my LEGO builds. I'm mostly thinking of taking more standard overview pictures of my builds (about the size of a modular building), but I would like to also take some pictures from the minifig perspective. I hope that I've come to the right place and hope it is ok to ask advice on what I should look out for when deciding for a camera and lenses.

I'm actually quite clueless still – I suspect that the camera model might not make a huge difference, but what type of lenses should I be looking at for LEGO photography? I'm currently considering Sony (a6400) and Fujifilm (x-t3 or x-t30) cameras, so any specific recommendation would also be much appreciated!

Thank you very much!

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2 Replies
Posts: 395
Core Team
Joined: 2 years ago


I recently went through this too and based on what I could afford I went with a Fujifilm XT100. 

I really like it but it's the only camera I've used and I am still a novice so I'm probably not the best person to help you here. I'll tag some of our mods to see if they can offer any advice.





Four Bricks Tall
Posts: 577
Joined: 3 years ago

You can't really go wrong with Sony or Fuji at this point. And you're correct in assuming the lens is more important.

If it's a set of lenses you're after, I would say that a 16-70 would do you well for LEGO photography (builds and minifig). A macro lens or at least a lens with a minimum focusing distance of under 22cm will allow you to get close to a minifig for the minifig perspective.

Note that you don't need a true macro lens (1:1 magnification) as rarely will you want a head-and-shoulders shot of a minifig. A 1:2 is perfect and much cheaper.

There are budget workarounds to a macro lens (extension tubes, close-up filters, reversing rings) but a macro lens is designed for sharpness at a close focusing distance whereas other lenses are not. Any add-ons to make a regular lens have macro capabilities will amplify any flaws (softness, chromatic aberration, etc) that the lens already has.

If you'd like a specific recommendation, I would suggest the Sigma 70mm 2.8 macro or better yet, just buy a vintage macro lens for under $100. You don't need the AF on macro lenses unless you are doubling it as a portrait lens or need to shoot blind (under sun, low to the ground for example). My vintage macro lenses of choice are the Takumar 50mm f/4 and the Minolta 100mm f/2.8.